Inland, and Into the Mountains...
- hollandauctions
- Oct 21, 2023
- 3 min read
After yesterday's wind and rain, I am happy to see that today is a short day of 20 kms, so I plan accordingly, sleeping in and grabbing a leisurely coffee... and that's when I begin to look at my days adventure, and realize, it's not gonna be as short and sweet as I think!... The days travel is supposed to take me from Ribadeo to Gondan, but, as I choke on my tortilla, I realize the hostel in Gondan is marked as closed... no problem, tomorrow is supposed to be an even shorter day, so I will stop 5 kms short of Gondan and add it to tomorrow's hike... except that when I call the hostel 5 kms short of Gondan, they inform me that yesterday was their last day open for the season... which means I am now walking to Lourenza, which is about 27 kms and up a couple of big hills, it's pouring rain, and the time is approaching noon... the best laid plans of mice and men...

A street in Ribedeo, on my (quick) way out...

The skies are gray, and the rain will stay with me all day today...

There will be many paths like this over the next few days, as we head up and into the hills..

So cool that Galicia actually includes the mileage on their markers... under 200 kms!

The thing about hills and mountains is that there isn't much else aside from trails and trees...
Definitely climbing!

So many little hamlets are just falling into ruin... Oftentimes, out of 10 homes, 3 or 4 will be in this condition, or used to house farm equipment, 3 or 4 will be for sale and looking a bit ramshackle, and only a couple will actually show signs of being inhabited...

Mountain roads everywhere..

... and almost always heading up!

Now my shoes are really going to start getting dirty!

This caught me by surprise... I didn't know snails were carnivorous...
The day's changing fortune is just starting to dawn on me...

These locals share the camino spirit, providing a source of water for pilgrims, as well as a little bench where I had half a sandwich I bought at a store on my way out of town this morning/afternoon...

Scorched earth... fire passed through this area last week...

A little village in the mountains..

Prime example of a beautiful old stone building being used to store hay and farm implements...

These are more ruts than trails, but still pretty!

Misty mountains.

Those vistas!
Emerging from the pouring rain...

Not much protection from the rain... I am soaked to the core!

Life in the hills...

For a short while, it was actually nice out!

I felt like this horse was posing for me...

A church in the middle of nowhere... cause why not?

The day is actually turning pleasant...

Pilgrims down a path... It's Bridget and Jason from Austin, Texas... I will have dinner with them the next two nights...

Roosters all through Spain, and they don't just crow in the early morning!

Imagine having that view every day!

It's not a complete blog without a cow pic!

My day is coming to an end shortly...

... but first, I need to refuel with a coffee con leche and a Radler, served in a large frozen mug!

Just a little bit further...

... and then a little more...
And that's it. No dinner pics tonight... I went to eat at a decently rated restaurant, but when I got there, there was a note in the window stating the kitchen was temporarily closed... It was raining, and cold, so I chose to eat at the bar next door to the restaurant. I ordered a plate of calamari, a plate of Padron peppers and a chorizo sausage cooked in cider, but forgot to take a picture when it all came out, as I was deep in conversation with Bridget and Jason... Dessert was a white chocolate ice cream bar with mango and coconut...
Distance walked today- 30 kms
TOTAL DISTANCE TRAVELLED SO FAR- 745 KMS
Well, well, well-how could it be pouring rain when you're hair STILL looks so great in the selfie??
Really nice paths on this leg, it seems.
Hired the funk smell: you said everyone smelled on the Camino, but has anything changedm or does everyone just keep thier distance?
Until today, you'd not mentored any other travelers for days; is the season pretty much over for 'Hobbits in Spain: The Adventure Awaits' ? I know you said some hostels were closing up. Are you meeting any new friends or seeing some that you've met earlier: it just seems like you're talking more about yourself and not shared dinners or experiences. Do you find it more lonely or better with less prop…
My goodness, Larry! The mileage you've covered by Oct 19, 2023 -- it's like walking from Windsor to Ottawa, only with better views and better food.
You did not mention any soreness in your feet or knees. I am hoping that means you've got the pain under control for the last leg (pardon the pun) of your journey.
If I calculate the remaining kilometers over the days you've left, my gosh, you're on track to accomplish your goal!
Thank you again for the great photos. We're all rooting for you on this end.