Not Goodbye... Until Next Time...
- hollandauctions
- Oct 5, 2023
- 4 min read
Besides the thrashing I knew my feet would take once I started walking longer days, I was trying to put off the long distance hikes because I knew it would also mean the end of my first camino family.
I didn't intend to make friends, let alone family. I specifically chose this route, at this time of year, to be away from people. My experiences at our store back home, constantly dealing with shoplifters, freeloaders, hagglers, stolen goods fencers, breakin artists, and the generally dumb and ignorant, had really given me a poor outlook on human beings, and I really thought this trip was partly going to be about getting away from people for a while. As it turns out, to be alone was not what I needed, and as the saying goes, the camino always provides.
On my first day, before I had even left Irun, I was 'provided' with a couple from BC, who spoke English and were mountain hiking enthusiasts, and at the end of the day, I was so thankful to have had their company. Then, once I'd arrived at the albergue in Passaies de St Jean, I was invited to have a drink with an older French couple. Upon returning to the albergue, I struck up a conversation with an Australian mother and daughter.
WAIT! I DIDN'T COME HERE FOR THIS!...
But they all had one thing in common. They were all so nice! No alterior motives, no fake smiles, no bad intentions, all these people really just wanted to share this amazing experience with those around them... Damn! Guess I'm gonna have to suck it up and play nice... The first time I had a conversation with Jo and Serin, it was as if we had known each other 20 years, and now, some 10 days later, my camino family was about to end, as they were having health issues and taking the bus more and more, and I was on the long path to mangled feet...
The morning starts in Guemes at Father Ernesto's hostel.. a view around the grounds, which are well kept and tranquil...
Some more of the compound, and then a gorgeous sunrise with lots of mist...
A photo worth getting up to take...
Here I walked for a short time with a fellow Canadian from Winnipeg, and we were in awe of the morning light mixed with the rolling mists...
A small beach I pass...
The ocean is back...
I approach the amazing Cantabrian cliffs...
A couple of things here... Some of those mountains in the distance are HUGE, with like, white stuff at the top, and I'm just not ready for that... second, that old man I said hello to saved my ass about 3 minutes after I shot this, calling me from several hundred feet away as I disappeared down yet another wrong path that would have led me who knows where...
When you're not sure if you want to see a sheep or cow picture...
A great couple of hours walking along the edge of cliffs...
I leaned really far over to get this shot for you guys...
Most of those couple hours were spent in a thick mist...
The first view of Santander was magical, as it seems to rise out of the mist in the far distance...
You don't realize how big this Pamplona grass is until you stand next to it... They easily grow 9-12 feet tall...
I just have to walk the four or five kms across this beach behind me and I'll be at the ferry to take me to Santander...
What an elixir putting your feet in the ocean water is for sore legs!
Business or pleasure?
Low tide..
Thankfully, an older Spaniard walked up and told some people waiting for the ferry that it wasn't coming for a while...
Boarding the ferry which crosses over to Santander...
This is when I realize how big Samtander is...
A Spanish sea galleon in the Port...
A street view in Santander... Sadly, sometimes this camino feels a bit like being on a cruise, where you only have a short time to visit each location, and I think Santander might be a good city to explore again in the future, as it seems to have a lot to offer...
A Xarcuteria, a shop specializing in meats, and especially the prized Iberian Jamon...
Tonight's dinner, my last with Jo, Serin and Ramona, and also attended by Anya, starts with white asparagus served with two sauces (a Pico de Gallo and a garlic mayo) and a tomato and onion salad...
It is followed by a paella that was even better than the one I had in Castro Urdiales...
Please sir, I want some more...
And this Crianza was amazing!...
And then the evening is over... we give our last goodbyes, a hug to everyone, and then it is time to return to my hostel and think about tomorrow's walk... This door catches my attention on the way back..
I love these plazas all over Spain... They are hubs of activity always... I had an aperitif here earlier, on my way to dinner...
Distance travelled today- 23kms
TOTAL DISTANCE TRAVELLED SO FAR- 309KMS
Hope you’re okay Lawrence. Happy Thanksgiving from Canada.
Are you still on the road?
Last update we got was from 5 days ago. Hope your feet, shoes and knees are holding up.
Thanks for showing some wine! Much better than the feet vid. For all the wine snobs Lawrence was drinking a Rioja D.O.C. Wine that was aged for 6 months in American Oak and aged for 1 yr. Next he will try a Reserva which will be 1yr in oak and aged for 2 yrs. For Lawrence’s finale he will drink a Grand Reseva which will spend 2yrs in oak and aged for 3 yrs. (Play along with me Lar!!!)
309 km, HOLY COW.
It must be very difficult to leave some ofv these beautiful towns and oceanside villages and continue walking.
I'm pretty sure I'd have stopped to enjoy a few days in these towns rather than hiking over 20km more/ day.
That paella looks amazing!
You're basically 1/3 done unless you finish early or take a bus - which you really should do if your feet get any more stinky
Like Pete said, take a short bus ride and a few days of rest. Make sure it's the short bus, though.
I did 44km in the past 5 days, just exercising and a long wall at Point Pelee. Nothing like you've done, AND not carrying 18 lbs …
Hey Lawrence, you sound so much better today. :-)
Thank you for all the gorgeous shots and honest commentary. Remarkable that you manage to produce so much content with only your phone. I can't imagine how you're doing that. No keyboard, no mouse, a small screen ... while at the same time dealing with incredible aches and pains! So appreciative of the regular updates.
Nice that you've met good people along the way. Us humans, we're not all that bad. Oddly, I do hope you have opportunity for solid alone time too. I am remembering from our earlier conversations that you wanted to engage in some healthy introspection. You've certainly got inspiring scenery and the daily repetition of wake, walk…
Soaking your feet in salt water is very healing. So is drinking wine.